BEERSMITH 3 MASH AND BOILD PROFILE FULL

Yeast can be pitched relatively cool, around 55-60F, and allowed to rise a few degrees over the first few days.

Wyeast’s Scottish Ale yeast is ideal in this respect. Brewing a wee heavy can be a lot like brewing a lager, but with a neutral ale strain that is tolerant of low temperature ranges. This profile comes from low ale fermentation temperatures, usually followed by a cold conditioning or cellaring period during which the beer ages and mellows. They also tend to be relatively clean, in spite of restrained low ester levels that should come off as darker fruits, such as plum and raisin.

BEERSMITH 3 MASH AND BOILD PROFILE FULL

In this case, I’m going with Fuggle hops.Īnyone who has tasted a good commercial example of a wee heavy knows that they are full of malt character and body without being over sweet. Because Scotland does not grow hops commercially, English hops are most often used. Hops aren’t a strong feature of wee heavies, so a simple bittering addition with a small flavor or aroma addition for complexity will suffice. In fact, if you are feeling adventurous, you may take a gallon of the first runnings and reduce it by boiling until it is syrupy, then adding back to the main body of wort and continuing with the boil. Longer boiling times also can help concentrate sugars and slightly caramelize the wort, a feature of wee heavy ales. This makes a more dextrinous wort with a heavier body. While a single infusion mash can be used, it is usually at a higher temperature, anywhere in the range from 154-158F. The brewing process is a bit more complex than some of your easier ales. Water used in brewing wee heavy beers should be heavy in calcium and chloride but low in sulfates, in order to be balanced toward malt character. However, modern Scottish breweries and home brewers tend to use a few specialty grains to round out the grain bill, making a more complex finished product. Many recipes can be, and have been, as simple as a good, rich Scottish pale ale malt used as the base, with a little dark roasted malt for color. They have an alcohol warmth that is present, but not overpowering. Wee heavies tend to be beers that are big on malt, higher in alcohol, and low on hops having hopping rates that are just enough to balance the sweetness from the malt. You should be ready to go.Hello everyone, and welcome again to Brew Along with Us! For this month’s recipe, I’m turning to a style that I felt would work well for the upcoming cool months: a strong Scotch ale, also commonly known as a wee heavy. This is probably less critical on your system since you have temperature control and a heat source. Mash Tun Specific Heat The specific heat of your mash tun generally this is a number between 0.10 and 0.50 with lower numbers associated with all metal mash tuns such as stainless steel and higher numbers representing plastic thermal coolers. This may help if you still have questions: There are single and double temperature mashes, and you can always add your own mash profile. The temperature rest profiles are for systems with a heast source, like yours. This leaves me with a five gallon finished volume (bottling vol).įor Mash Profile: It depends on what you are doing, but Beersmith has temperature mash profiles which you can modify for your desired temperature rests. Deadspace: Should be zero since your mash tun is also your kettle.Įfficiency: I'd probably start with 75% and adjust from there after you 'dial in' your sytem.įermenter: Pretty straightforward, I like to get 5.5 gallons into my fermenter and I estimate I lose about. This is probably less critical on your system since you have temperature control and a heat source.Ĥ. Mash Tun Specific Heat – The specific heat of your mash tun – generally this is a number between 0.10 and 0.50 with lower numbers associated with all metal mash tuns such as stainless steel and higher numbers representing plastic thermal coolers.

This is used to compensate mash temperatures for the thermal mass of your tun.ģ. Mash tun weight and specific heat: Estimate/calculate the weight of the kettle with the mash pipe. You should be able to calculate this with water by adding the malt pipe and calculating the increase in water volume from the measuring rod.That will give you your workable mash tun volume.Ģ. Mash Tun Volume: On your system, I would list the tun volume as the volume of the kettle (I think it's 55L) minus the volume displaced by the malt pipe and tie down rod, etc. That should be it for the boiler, leave the defaults for the other values.ġ. Something like 0.5-1 gallons per hour is probably a good starting point.ģ. You may not know your boil off rate yet, but you can estimate it by boiling water for an hour and subtracting the pre-boil vol from the post boil vol. This calculates the boil volume off based off your batch size and boil off rate. Top Up Water: Zero since you are doing full batch boils.Ģ. The equipment profile is fairly straightforward to setup.

Beersmith 3 mash and boild profile